Written by Marina Zakarian (woozy(a)flash.net)

INTRODUCTION
So you want to hitchhike through Europe. And I mean really do this. Pack it in and shag. You aren't going with your college semester group. You are bright, an intellect, a graduate of something or other and want to get to that place were you heard it was better than the crap they feed us in America. Right? The European experience, where things are really carefree. You've hung out in Portland, cut fish heads in Alaska, laid out in Seattle for a while, did this and that in San Fran, know you could make it in New York, but.......well, you're just not ready to make that kind of move. So, some friends, have some friends, that just got back from Amsterdam and you heard that it's...... well ........ shusssssss.......well, legal to smoke hash. That its really cool and everyone is really cool. Whoever you are, you want to get over to Europe, to hitchhike, backpack and meet the villagers. Well then, here we go.

CHAPTER I.
US AND THEM

The typical vacationer traveling to Europe has the ability (or luxury) to visit with arrangements made through a travel agent. With credit cards, available cash and the Eurorail in hand, this type of traveler, setting out on a six-week excursion, will only experience a moment of European life. Their itinerary will include the museums, hotels or hostels, cafes and the typical tourist sights all crammed into the six-week journey, seeing the major cities, the metropolitans, and not much else in between. I wanted much more and chose to leave everything behind in order to have a journey that would alter me in both my perception of who I was, and, to also, purge myself from the stale existence I had been living. It only made sense that in order to grow as a person I would have to shed from my life the constant struggle of balancing life, love, school, family, money and all the other common day stresses. Just pack it in and get away. Ride the Kafka tip in Prague, smoke hash in Amsterdam, swim naked in the English Gardens of Mhnich, find Salvador Dali's land in Spain, cross Buda into Pest, find the Rainbow People in Portugal, write a book and make my journey unforgettable, indelible. Hitchhike! It's cost effective, hard work, therapeutic, environmentally enriching, rewarding and yes, some kind of bohemian methodology! It all came to fruition and, more importantly, can for anyone as determined. Do your own research and make some good decisions and peruse this guide for the guts.
This book was written for the Hardcore Backpacker who has neither the restrictive and expensive Eurorail Pass or a travel agent. This guide is for the hitchhiker, chance taker and adventurer. In three months I made all the arrangements that ultimately kept me traveling Europe for a two year stint, through fourteen countries. I cannot stress enough that no two experiences will be alike, but I intend to convey to the reader all the tips and advice I can give in hopes that more people will take the chances I did and backpack/hitchhike Europe somewhat blind and somehow wide-eyed. This book is extremely unconventional with a philosophy that contains more zen than I had first realized.
Millions of people each and everyday leave their homeland and seek out history for their own pleasure and necessity. Families, men, women, and travelers have crossed the oceans for hundreds of years. Some returning, some remaining.
Whether it be for a six-week planned vacation or an overwhelming desire to adhere to a different lifestyle and culture, anyone can venture throughout Europe with a clear mind free of worries about safety or danger. The paranoia's that are imbedded in your American consciousness will slowly dissolve as you find that Europeans are honest and giving people where crime is not an issue. To not completely romanticize the adventure, there are exceptions in some far eastern countries and you do need to be careful when traveling in certain regions of Europe, but for the most part, you will be able to sense the differences of one's countries people from the others.
I had no credit cards, a very minimal knowledge of backpacking, camping or even traveling for that matter, but a fervor of determination. I was resolute to the point of being a bit impetuous in my plans but have never once had any regrets. On the contrary, the experience has enriched my life beyond my expectations.
I sold my car, my clothes, all my possessions, packed my books in trunks, got a passport and split. I had no idea of where this somewhat whimsical adventure would lead me, but I had hoped I would not be returning. For two years, my traveling companion and I pitched our tent where ever we could, walked days to get to the next turn-in-the-road surprises of a new day and all its components. After two years it became evident that staying without visas was problematic and the options to stay had real consequences. (See Chapter: So I Want to Stay). Visas and Eurorail Passes are obtained prior to leaving the states and Americans are allowed to stay in any country for three months without visas. I had neither. I crossed borders often which begins a new three months, but these factors are rarely noticed. You may be asked by border customs how long you are going to be staying in their country, but this is all formalities and of no great concern. The customs people see travelers all day long. American passports are rarely stamped and you are generally waved through border stops and customs whether you're hitching, walking through the border or by train or bus.
Along the way you will make friends and learn the particular customs of that country, but all in all, you will find that what we take for granted is of major concern for Europeans. For example, never let the water run while you brush your teeth! Turn the water off in the shower while you soap up. Don't flush the toilet everytime! Conserve, conserve, conserve! Eat everything on your plate, and don't order more than you think you will eat. Be courteous to the older folks and learn some basic conversation before entering each country. In various countries, as in the Germanic countries, there are different ways to say hello to a child, a friend, a young person and an adult. These things you will learn from the friends you will make.


CHAPTER II.
A TALE OF DIFFERENCE

The first day I arrived in Switzerland I was sitting at a bus stop after departing from a car ride who had taken me for some distance. It was a beautiful Swiss day. The mountains surrounding the country were very visible with snow caps and hovering clouds. Bicycles passed with children and babies in tow, on carts or seats. People where shopping and walking all around me. Old couples arm in arm. A couple of mohawk kids rode by on their bikes, and then a woman with a baby carriage stopped in front of a flower shop where she left the carriage outside the shop while she went in to shop. The carriage and its occupant lay kicking its feet and hands up into the air enjoying the day while mom went inside to buy fresh flowers. The umbrella that matched the carriage was in place and time just passed by. No one stopped to look or care. This is normal activity in a day for a woman or husband in this country. And many others. I sat at that bus stop bench and tears ran down my face as I realized that there existed no element of fear for the mother and her child was safe. Eventually, seeing this phenomena became commonplace as I saw many babies in many prams parked pleasantly outside shops while the babies listened to church bells chime the time, bicycles ringing their ting-ting bells and having no care in the world. Many towns do not allow automobiles to enter the center of the city where the shops are located. As well, in some cities automobiles are only allowed on roads on interval days of the week. These are just a few of the differences that address our world ecologically and with social impact.
For us, Americans, taking vacations is a treat and a sporadic one. The average American worker gets 11.37 days a year (paid) vacation time. Unless you are bound to a corporation or independently wealthy, traveling is quite expensive. I was very fascinated on how the democratic socialist countries like Switzerland, Germany, Holland and Austria, allow someone to travel so often. As you too will learn about young Europeans, they generally travel over a course of a half a year to a year all over the world, giving me further applause to a culture of young people who know much more than we do about the world. Democratic socialist having the ability to work a contracted job for a specific amount of time that is dictated by the worker, allows them to work a year and travel a year, or six months on and six months off. However they chose to arrange this with their employer is first negotiated by the worker's desires. As Americans we, if we're lucky, get a few weeks of vacation and the average worker cannot afford a lengthy stay abroad. There are exceptions to these arrangements in other countries of Europe, but all the European countries inhabitants travel because the distance from one country to another is quite short. Europeans take advantage of their wonderful modes of transportation and travel year round. Another language, culture and ideals can literally be ten minutes from one's front door.
Living in Europe gave me the ability to learn of an enormous range of cultures, including my own. I met many immigrants and ex-patriots (ex-pats, as they are so called) from all over the world and it is the consensus that Europe is such a mixture of cultures that you will inevitably find a place you could easily call home. Home may always be America for those who have lived or visited Europe and I only want to express my own personal approach and the feelings that I have from living with so many different people from all over the world. I managed to travel through fourteen European countries that I will outline and will give you some insight into them. The suggestions and advice I will give to the reader will allow you to make your own conclusions and hopefully you will repeat your journey with a renewed sense of yourself. I want to share my experiences with other young people who also have a desire to travel around Europe organically and safely. What I have learned will give you the fundamental and essential smarts of hitchhiking, backpacking, eating and taking life very slow. So slow that when (or if) you return to the states you will realize that you once talked quite fast in comparison to Europeans (with the exception of Latin countries!) I have now slowed all the thoughts down, concentrate better, eat better, are healthier and have a new appreciation about life. Internalizing your day to day concerns is simple when the paranoia's and fears are removed. I needed to write this guide because no one else has. I acquired a way to live that is impossible to transplant back to America but there are many views that will change: perceptions, relationships, communication, appreciation for our natural resources, fitness, history.


CHAPTER III.
TRAVEL GUIDES
(AND THEN THERE'S SOME FREAKY TOUR GUIDES)

Travel books are generally written for the credit card traveler and I was amazed that I could not find one reference to hitchhiking in Europe or any kind of hardcore traveling which gave me the green flag to put to pulp my journey. I want to make this very user friendly, and as concise and to the point as possible. It is not my intention to give you "Hot Spots" to visit, or to even suggest you take this book with you, which would take up valuable space in your backpack. I will not give you the "Back Door" approach or give you charts on restaurants or hostels. You will find all this out on your own. There are places that I will recommend you not miss because of their "off the beaten path desirability", places you won't find in a conventional travel book, but that will be the extent of it. The best advice is to never be shy about asking someone for assistance about buses, trains, trams, restaurants, markets and directions. Ask a freak, a grandmother, a shop owner. Just ask. Somehow the message comes across. (And then sometimes it doesn't and you end off the path, but who cares--you're in another world.)
One of the greatest beauties in Europe is the young people who have the run of the whole darn place and they are very accessible and very willing to assist you along in your journey from offering their homes to crash in, their friends' flats to crash in, take you to the restaurants, bars, the camp grounds and the best cafes and shops, and will show you where the squats are, if you ask. They are all travelers themselves and it's just a way of life. I was amazed at how many young people that live at home would bring me to their parents' home to sleep. European parents are incredibly tolerable of the youth in their countries and accept everyone. Don't be shy. If you see a young person, and there are thousands walking with their grandparents in the park - just walk up and make some conversation. Most all young Europeans are equipped with conversation English and are more than happy to talk to you about their country, city and how they live. They don't ask much about America but only to help them out with their English.
My journey was difficult to a certain degree and I was relieved of long journeys by staying in a WG (pronounced: vay gay): a communal house in Switzerland, where I could go to rest and recoup before heading out on the road. Again, this is an isolated case and you will find your own friends, make your own connections when asking about communal houses or squats throughout Europe. Squatters rights are well regarded in Europe and function with help from travelers all over the world. There still exist opposition of squatters in some countries but the rights are in place and if the squats are run by level headed entrepreneurs, the squats can last for many years. Each country has their own ideas of how squats should work and there are many successes, many failures and many demonstrations to keep the rights in tack. If you find one that you are comfortable with, pitch in and help out. You'll always find a place to crash. Promise.
Last, but not least: always give your seat to the elder when on public transportation; never travel in a group larger than two, and I wish you the best of luck and hope that this book will guide you gently along in your journey.


CHAPTER IV.
WHEELS VS. HITCHHIKING
(Buying Transportation in London)

One way to travel Europe I discovered after arriving in England, but was not financially able to take this option, is to purchase a camper, van, or VW bus in London on Kings Row. If you chose this arrangement you will have to plan for the expense of fuel which is six times the cost of the states. About $6.00 a gallon. On Kings Row in London, camper owners' (mostly VW vans) sit with their vehicles for sale and some are equipped with things you will need for the journey. Usually they will cost anywhere from $3,000 to $6,000. The vehicle owners will haggle and spit and will give European travelers the better deal, but you can buy one and inside you can generally find maps and cooking gear. You will closely recoup the cost of the vehicle when your trip is over and you resell it back on Kings Row to new arriving travelers, and fly back to the states out of London. Again, if you decide to use this means of traveling you will have to pay for the fuel along the way which is very costly. One advantage is you will never have to incur any expenses on hostels or campgrounds and can "free camp" anywhere you like, but as a reminder, the same expenses are saved when backpacking with a tent. Also to consider is that they will break down on occasion, but if you are a past VW owner you could make the repairs. The cost of the journey for four months would cost about $6,000 for the fuel and maintenance expenses only, and not the recoup cost of the vehicle which you may lose some on when you resell it. If you are in a group of four, on a short excursion, this could be a good option, and keep in mind that every hitchhiker that sees you coming will ask for a lift. This can be a great way to meet other people from different countries.


CHAPTER V.
THE HARDCORE BACKPACKING WAY
(IT HURTS THE FIRST COUPLE OF DAYS!)

A. BLAH BLAH BLAH, HERE'S THE STUFF

Here I will attempt to give you an idea of the expenses that you will incur in your preparations. Without any idea of how much cash you are planning to take, I can only guide you through the initial expenses of getting there and some of the options you will have. Some items are unavoidable in their costs (i.e. the passport), but others will be at your personal discretion and choices. I highly recommend you take a great deal of time in learning about tents and sleeping bags and spend your hard earned money on those items. Other items you will purchase, toss out along the way and repurchase, but I will give you the basic items that will make things easier.

The Passport $150.00; Photos (purchase and have taken near the courthouse) $10.00
Your passport is good for ten years and the most important document you will have on you. I never lost mine or had it stolen and never really tried to conceal it. At the beginning I wore one of the hidden belts that you strap around your waist and is concealed down your pants. After awhile I ditched it and just kept it in a safe place in my backpack inside a soft bound journal. Some travelers feel these hidden pouches are a necessity, but I disagree. For one, you have to show your passport constantly and reaching in and out of your pants is a real hassle. I think these hidden pouches make you stand out like a sore thumb and makes it more obvious that you are a traveler, even if the bag on your back isn't enough of a clue. No one is going to rob you because you will probably look too poor for anyone to bother with. Robbers in the more impoverished countries (i.e. far eastern, parts of Spain and Portugal) are looking for gaudy Americans, Japanese and others, with gold watches, and cameras around their necks. Just use your head and be aware of your surroundings. I wore a chain wallet which I kept my money and travelers' checks in and never had a problem.
You may be aware of the INSC (International Student Card) that you can purchase at a student travel agency in your town. They will only work on the return airline ticket if you chose to fly in on a one-way ticket. It was a great savings when I purchased my return ticket, so consider if you want to purchase one before leaving. They cost around $20.00, valid for one year, and can be purchased at student travel offices. They will not work at any hostel, restaurant or hotel as promised. Trust me.
Get ready for some hard walking. It will definitely get you in shape! This is why it is very important to make sure you have chosen the right backpack, tent, sleeping bag, walking shoes and necessities. The lighter the better…more on that later! You will find that there will be times that if you just start walking on the smaller roads, you will begin to enjoy seeing people working on their land and taking in the fresh air. Of course, catching rides is the mission, but sometimes just walking, even the entire day, is very invigorating. There were many nights that I just couldn't catch a ride (especially in Spain) and found that just walking to the next town had to be done. Have plenty of water!


CHAPTER VI.
GETTING THERE
It Can Be Tricky

An associate of mine, who is a commercial travel agent, that books charter flights with seats still remaining and comparably much less expensive then getting tickets through the airlines, booked my flight. Commercial agencies are a great place to start. As well, check your local newspaper for postings from individuals selling tickets, and smaller agencies that have low airfares. Flying from New York to London is the cheapest way. I flew Sunjet from Dallas to New York for $99.00 and hung out with friends for a couple of weeks and then flew to London's Heathrow Airport. London has two major airports: Heathrow and Gadwick and there is not that much difference in which one you choose. Heathrow will get you to the main station in London quicker than Gadwick via the tunnel. You'll arrive and head to the center of town on The Tube. My ticket from New York to London was $269.00, one-way. In a following chapter I will discuss the drawbacks of flying into London, so you may want to fly into another major city. Take great care in choosing your route. Flying into Portugal from Florida is a good alternative, as well, as flying directly into Zurich or Amsterdam. Cost differences vary and I chose London because of it was the least expensive.

IMPORTANT: If you choose to use the two-part route (i.e. the short hop within the states, and then across the Pacific), be cautious when booking the short hop with a small airline. It's much safer to drive out to your airport and pick-up the ticket in advance. The smaller commuter airlines do not have a ticketing process as larger airlines do and having the ticket in hand is much safer than waiting until you get to the airport and find out you don't have a reservation. Which is exactly what happened to me. Specifically, I went to a small travel agency in my town and booked the short-hop to New York with them, and paid them directly for the flight. They reserved my seat but never sent in the payment. The travel agency claimed they were waiting for the billing invoice from the airline to pay for it, but was unaware (so they claim) that Sunjet does not have a billing process, nor do they give you a confirmation receipt. I had to pay the full "same-day" fare when I arrived at the airport to find that my reservation had been cancelled due to non-payment. After I arrived in New York I called the travel agency, furiously, and they reimbursed me for the money that I had gave them for the booking. The difference in cost of pre-booking and the "same-day" fare was never recouped. I was out another $80. That is why I am want to impress upon you that the travel agency is not always a good idea, but sometimes unavoidable. I had no trouble with the ticket that my associate had made from New York to London.
There is also the "package carrier" journey which basically means you carry a package for a company or private individual and they pay for your airfare. The drawback is that you have to leave and return on specified dates and the waiting list is outrageous. There does exist a book specifically on "package carriers" in your local bookstore if you want to research this option.


CHAPTER VII.
FLYING IN ON A ONE-WAY
(How They Hate it in London)


Since I went on a one-way ticket the customs officers in London inflicted upon me a barrage of questions. They assume you are coming to an English speaking country to find jobs and a one-way ticket is a flag for them to give you a tough time. I just told them that I was not sure of how long I would be traveling and my parents would be sending me my return ticket when I was ready to return. They checked my funds which consisted of $800 worth of American Express Travelers checks. This to them seemed to be very little money and still held me up for a brief time. I continued to explain that I was a student traveling through Europe and had every intention of returning to the states in a few weeks and my parents would be sending me the return ticket. I explained that I was not sure from which city I would be returning, so I didn't book the return flight. They told me I could stay three days in London and then would have to leave. Fine! No big deal. London was not one on my "must see" stops!
There is a risk of a one-way ticket and you will need to decide if this is the best route for you. There is also the option of flying into Portugal via Florida to avoid the hostile welcome of London controllers. It's not as terrifying as it might sound, but definitely something to consider. London was the cheapest to fly into and a place to begin where it is English spoken which can ease the transition. You also have the option of an open-end ticket that you can use when you decide to return. These are more expensive.
I stayed in a cheap hostel when I got into London's main terminal, which I regret because there are so many squats in London, but this is one of those items that I'm passing on to you. When you arrive at the main station in London via The Tube, hostel hagglers will approach you to stay at their place. They receive bonus days from the hostel to stay for free for each new traveler they bring to the hostel. That's great for them and you may have to be a hostel haggler in some city but avoid being haggled for a place to stay. Remember, saving every dollar counts. Walk out on the street, look for a freak and ask them where to crash. Walk up to any freak and JUST ASK!!! Easy.
The next day I hitchhiked out of the city to the coast of England, Harwick, which took a day, and caught the ferry to Hoek Van Holland. There is no other way to get across the channel unless you catch a ride with a trucker that is going across with his truck on a ferry. I met many people who do this. GREAT TIP TO REMEMBER: Catch truckers that are going great distances, especially across waterways, but be careful if you are a female traveling alone. Some truckers, like in the states, may be looking for some sexual favors. Just be cautious and be selective when talking to truckers.


CHAPTER VIII.
THE TENT

Hopefully you are traveling either alone or with one partner. Anymore would be a great mistake unless you will be traveling with a vehicle. It is a simple conclusion that too many decisions are too difficult to decipher. So the tent: If it says "sleeps two" don't believe it. Two midgets with no gear maybe. You need a three or four man tent for you and your backpacks that have expandable poles and have as little hardware as possible and all contained in a slip cover. Four to six stakes and two to three expandable poles is the trick. Igloo Style tents are the best. Generally they have a net shell you set up first which is great on hot days, and a nylon cover that fits over the interior tent. The best tip I can give you is to not purchase a tent made in China or Taiwan. These are mass produced and will leak. Find a good tent maker and borrow tents from friends and take weekend excursions prior to leaving. The tent we used took 10 minutes to set up and about 15 to re-pack. (Of course that was after several set-ups to get the routine down to a science).
Some tents come with sky light openings and that is cool because you definitely need to circulate air through the tent when your asleep. Some other tips are to dig a trench around the parameter of your tent in the event of rain so the rainfall doesn't collect around your tent and leak through the stitching. Find a soft patch of grass or some wooded area and kick out the sticks and rocks and pitch your tent. Then lay out your sleeping bags and arrange your packs inside. Soft mats are also nice to place under your sleeping bag. They weigh nothing and roll up to attach to the top of your backpack.
Take a pen light (like the mini-Mag Lights) with you and unscrew the bulb cover for a reading light inside the tent. Also a light that straps around your head is one the greatest tools you can purchase, which are very inexpensive, but you will need to carry extra batteries for it or purchase batteries along the way as needed. You need both hands when setting up your tent and the head lights are great since you are generally setting up camp in the middle of the night. It is nice if you can find a place in the daylight but more than not, you'll be setting up at night.


CHAPTER IX.
SLEEPING BAGS

I started off with a four sub-degree temp bag that was filled with goose down feathers and came from the Army Navy store. These bags are so comfortable but very heavy and take a great deal of time to roll up. I recommend a two season bag that is lightweight and dress warm on cold nights. The lighter the better. At your camping gear store you will find all types. Some can even zip up in a tiny bag that weighs very little. Go for the lightweight. I cannot express enough how weight will be a defining factor in your travels. I purchased a cinch bag for my sleeping bag and was one of the best investments I made. The sleeping bag, after rolled, is stuffed inside a cinch sack that has draw strings. The cinch bag compresses the sleeping bag and can the be easily attached to the bottom of your backpack. Purchase several nylon straps for adding your accessories to your backpack. These straps are equipped with black fasteners that the strap slides through. Take some time before leaving to get used to them. After a while you can strap them and release them in a matter of seconds.


CHAPTER X.
THE BACKPACK (RUCKSACK)

Backpacks are made in an array of varieties from Internal Frames to External Frames and no frames at all. External Frames are just about off the market, as well as they should be. They are just not practical and difficult to maneuver. Internal Frames are the best. Try them on and get comfortable with them on your body. Girls and guys are built differently (as we know) and will need different bags. A waistbelt is extremely necessary as well as sturdy shoulder pads. Camping stores even carry extra cushion pads that are made of lambs wool that soften the shoulder straps. All straps should be adjustable and be of good nylon material. Again, be sure to carry a couple of extra nylon straps in the event one is lost in the middle of the night or you acquire an item that you need to strap on to your backpack.
My pack came from the Army Navy supply store and was a Special Servicemen's backpack with one main section and two small bags that clip on the main compartment. By the time I was fully packed it weighed approximately 25 pounds. It does not have an internal frame and that was fine with me. My partner purchased an expandable backpack that had an extra compartment that dropped open at the bottom and had a small school-type bag that zipped onto the outside of the main bag. He paid $150.00 for it and traded it in a few weeks into the trip for a smaller backpack he found in Holland. It was cumbersome and weighed him down. The smaller the backpack the likely you are to not carry stuff you don't need, but think you do!


CHAPTER XI.
CLOTHES

As little as possible and all dark colors.
o Three pairs of underwear. You wash what you're not wearing.
o Three pairs of socks.
o Good walking shoes. Desert boots are great.
o Long Johns.
o Two T-shirts.
o Two light weight pants or jeans.
o Swimsuit, even though you will be swimming nude a lot. In some public pools you need one.
o For females, a chinch skirt and dress that are lightweight and roll up easily.

o Sandals, although you will find a pair you like better in your travels.

When packing your clothes try to roll everything up individually and then place into the main compartment of your backpack Most of the items I started out with are long gone and were replaced by things I found in thrift stores and used clothing shops along the way. Just take as little as possible. What you look like is of no concern and you will not be attending any "after five" affairs. I wore the same thing over and over. Who cares, you're in Europe and sleeping in your clothes anyway.


CHAPTER XII.
MORE STUFF FOR THE BACKPACK

o A medical kit: Band-Aids, sprang wrap, bug bite stuff, tiger's balm, Neosporin. Use small draw string bags of different colors for specific groups of items. That way you will eventually learn to grab the green bag, for example, that contains the medical supplies, or the red one that has the clothes pins, etc. You can easily make drawstring bags yourself.
o Clothes pins. I also made a small bag that I kept about a dozen pins in. You'll have to have them in countries that are quite windy when you string up a cloths line.
o Cloths Line. I used nylon rope about eight feet long.
o A small tin box filled with half a dozen large nails for attaching the clothes line to which you will do on trees and be sure to take the nails out of the tree when you leave camp; safety pins; a couple of sewing needles and thread; some small hooks and a few rubber bands.
o Ziplock Bags. I swear you'll run out and have to get more but the ziplock kind are hard to find in Europe, so recycle them as you use them. You will use them over and over.
o The Leatherman or Gropper Knife that fits on your pants belt. The Leatherman is the greatest tool ever made and I used it each and everyday for fixing the tent's zipper, to repairs, to tying up the cloths line, to just about everything. Get one. Ask for one as a going away present.
o A couple of small candles for when the batteries run out on the flashlight.
o An extra large black Marks-a-lot for making hitching signs. They won't pick you up unless your holding a sign with your destination clearly printed on it.
o Playing cards or a travel chess board.
o A lightweight journal book. Not a hard bound but a soft cover. As you fill them up mail them home or to a P.O. Box that you can set up somewhere in Europe where you think you will be returning. As you purchase trinkets and gifts mail them home right away.
o Address Book. A tiny one and fill it with those you want to correspond to back home and those friends you will acquire along in your travels.
o Matches kept in a waterproof container.
o Rain Pouch which you can purchase at the Army Navy supply shop. A rain pouch that can cover your head and your backpack is the best. Water guard everything before you leave out on your journey.
o A couple of small towels for drying off after a dip in the lake or the occasional shower at a camp site. If they are still wet when you leave camp just drape your towel over the back of your pack and it will dry in no time.
o Soap. Buy biodegradable soap and for laundry try to find the tablet laundry soap. These are smaller then lugging around laundry powder. You can do your laundry at the campgrounds when you want to stop in a town for a few days and can't find a commune or a squat. Campgrounds can be a real vacation after a long journey. They are also very inexpensive compared to a youth hostel.
o Cooking pots that fit inside each other and a "grab handle" that serves as a handle for all your pots.
o A tin coffee cup. I strapped mine to the outside of my backpack.
o Utensil set that can be purchased at the Army/Navy store that comes in clear plastic holders.


CHAPTER XIII.
WHERE TO CAMP

As you start out you will be overwhelmed by the larger metropolitan cities where camping is difficult. That is when you need to ask around for squats and cheap accommodations. Make friends at the local pubs where you will inevitably find people who are more than happy to put you up for a night or two, or sometimes, for awhile. I met many people who found a place for me to crash. When necessary find out where the campgrounds are, which generally are outside the city, and hitchhike to them or grab a bus that goes to the campsites.
For the most part, you will be on the smaller roads walking and hitchhiking to reach other towns and cities. Europe has three types of roadways: A (Autobahn) which you cannot hitchhike on; N (National) which are generally four lane roads that are hitchhikable; and the small D (Domestic) two lane roads that are the best for seeing the country side and have plenty of place to pitch your tent.
Pitching a tent along the way is no big deal. You can put your tent down practically anywhere you want. Farmers are a great source for pitching a tent. You can ask the farmer if it would be all right to pitch your tent on their property and, for the most part, will allow you to. Some will invite you into their home to sleep or will invite you to breakfast when you rise in the morning if you are pitching your tent on their land or in the barn. There is so much wooded area across Europe that you will have no trouble in finding a place in them to pitch your tent. Sometimes you might pitch your tent at night in an area that seems deserted but awake in the morning to realize you are in a park and people are jogging by your tent. Don't worry, they are used to seeing tents strewn all over their country and don't pay any attention. Some hostels will let you pitch your tent behind their building if their is ground and they will charge you a very minimal amount to do so.


CHAPTER XIV.
HOSTELS AND PENSIONS

Hostels are generally very inexpensive and if you find yourself tired and in a large city where there is no where to pitch your tent, you may have to dip into your funds and stay at a hostel or pension, as they are called in some countries. There you can get a shower, a goods nights sleep and usually have a continental breakfast included in the cost. If you decide you might want to stay in that particular city for awhile you might want to look for a hostel that will let you stay while you work for them. That generally means going to the train stations to find travelers looking for a place to stay: hostel hagglers as I mentioned earlier. Being an American speaker can be an asset when you are looking for work of that nature. A lot of Americans are traveling for a short time and use their hostel cards along the way. Hostel owners are glad to have an American speaker that can go to the stations and find Americans or other English speakers to stay at their establishment. We were able to stay in Prague for several months for free by working at a hostel.


CHAPTER XV.
BACK ON THE ROAD AND FOOD

While on the road backpacking you will need to learn how to feed yourself out in the wild. When you are in a major city try to pick up small items of food for the upcoming stretch of hitchhiking and settling somewhere to camp. Find the local market as soon as you arrive into town and be careful at the prices. Again, if you find a young person on the street to assist you in making purchases you will have a better chance at getting the right price and amount. A local person is always the best way to get information. Buy a small amount of coffee or tea, some rice, bread, cheese, fruit and bottled water. You may see some items you will like but eventually you will become accustom to small amounts of food several times a day. You can pick up these items in town and eat while your walking the roads. Having water with you at all times is a must. You will need a lot of water for your health as well as to make your tea or coffee with in the morning.
Pick you small packages of salt, pepper and sugar at restaurants when you can. Just keep in mind that food at restaurants is very expensive but there will be times when you want a meal that you didn't cook yourself, free of grass and sticks from camping, and will find a cheap place to eat. Stay away from eating at the train or bus stations and again, ask some young people where you can get a good meal for a reasonable amount.
To save money we generally always ate where we were camping and built a fire. Survival food was what we learned to become accustom to and so will you. Pasta, rice, bread, cheese, fruit, and occasionally some meat. If you have never made a fire here are some useful tips: 1) collect rocks near your campsite and make a circle; 2) collect pine needles and small sticks of kindling and large branches that are on the ground; 3) place the pine needles (or leaves) at the bottom inside the circle and build up the kindle that looks like a teepee; 4) light the pine needles or leaves and continually blow on them until the kindling catches fire; and 5) when the kindling is going strong place one log at a time on the fire until you have a good flame going. Continue to scout out large limbs and branches to place on the fire. Having a can a lighter fluid in your supply will help if you have camped where it has recently rained and everything is wet. With large stones or rocks you can build a place for your pots to sit while cooking your food. Rocks will get very hot and can be used to place meat directly on them to cook. We also carried a small amount of flour with us and would purchase an onion and garlic in the city to make a patty mixture that cooks right on the rocks. You just mix a little flour with water, chop some onion and garlic and add to the mixture. Then when you have a dough, flatten out patties with your hands on place them on the hot rocks. This is a great and inexpensive survival food that goes a long way. One traveler we met on the way just carried a wok with him to do all his cooking. He had a small container with oil and purchased his vegetables in town, or asked farmers for vegetables out of their gardens. It is amazing how friendly and giving farmers are to travelers. Don't be shy in asking for food.


CHAPTER XVI.
HITCHHIKING AND GETTING AROUND

Hitchhiking in Europe is a mode of transportation and you will see signs on certain stretches of road in some countries that have a big thumb in the "hitchhiking" symbol that lets you know that you can stand in that area to hitchhike. Always have a clear sign, usually made from cardboard that you can get out of trash bins, that clearly states where you are headed. No one acknowledges the "thumb" as we do in the states. Cardboard signs is the only way you are going to get recognized and its preferred that you write the city or country in the foreign spelling (i.e. Munich would be München, etc.) You will see road signs with their foreign spellings while you're traveling. Keep that journal handy!
When a car passes you while you are on the road with your sign, they have their own hand signals that let you know why they are not stopping. Since hitchhiking is so common a lot of drivers understand that it is frustrating when someone doesn't stop for them, so many drivers will give you their own hand signals back to you as a courtesy. A full open palm means their car is full. A signal with one finger making a circle means that they are in the area and not going far. When they point straight up, they mean they are just arriving in town and not going out. Some will just shrug which means they don't have time to stop. You will learn to understand them.
In some designated places for hitchhiking, you will get in line and the head of the line gets the first ride and moves down until it's your turn. People with cars are usually driving alone or are heading out to surrounding cities and picking up hitchhikers is second nature to them.
The best way rides are at the gas (petro) stations where you can stand with your sign and someone will pick you up from there. This is the easiest place to get a ride. Petro stations have truckers that come through as well as travelers and locals that are gasing up. Petro stations are far apart from each other so you will see lots of trucks and cars at these stops. Also if you get stuck late at night, you can pitch your tent behind a petro station.
Become familiar with the countries letter stickers that are on every car, and if you should see a car that has the sticker of the country where you are headed, ask them for a ride. For example Switzerland is CH; Ireland is IR, Germany is D, etc. Rarely will someone say no.
IMPORTANT NOTE: You should go to a bookstore or library before you leave and write down the car sticker letters for each country where you will be traveling before you leave.
You will see other hitchhikers waiting for rides at the petro stations and it is first-come-first-serve. Be assertive and ask people who are going your direction. Your cardboard sign can also contain the car symbol in the corner that you can draw on with your marker and that will get attention from those countrymen.
Purchase a Europe map when leaving the states that has all the roads clearly marked, not just the A (Autobahn) roads, and in addition, pick up free maps from travel agencies in the countries or cities that you are in. These maps will help you while you are walking through town and on the smaller roads and they are free from the cities travel agency. Although these maps are great for designing your desired journey, the individual country and city maps are very helpful. These will contain landmarks and sights that will not be on your Europe map. Every major city in Europe has an information center that has the small letter "i" that will offer to you free maps and information, and where you will always find English speakers. Look for the "i" at the train stations, bus stops and kiosks. Kiosks are convenient stores, small shops, where you can buy your bus tickets and get information.


GET THAT PACK OFF YOUR BACK

On occasion you will arrive in a large city, as in Paris, for example, and would prefer to just walk around the city without your backpack. At the train station you can rent a locker for a minimal amount that will hold your bags and print out a ticket with a coded number that allows you to open the locker when you are ready to retrieve your bags. My backpack had a small pack attached to it that I used for day excursions. If yours does not, you can bring with you a small bag for day trips which will hold small items you might need for the day.


CHAPTER XVII.
CHANGING MONEY

As I am writing this guide, the Euro Dollar is beginning to be implemented and the cost of changing money in each country will be eliminated. The Euro Dollar is a universal currency that will be used throughout Europe where no country will have their own currency. Some countries are refusing to join the Euro Dollar program and there may be countries where you will have to exchange money, like Switzerland. Call a bank before you leave and change your money into traveler cheques before you leave.
There are two important factors to consider. First, every time you change money you will be charged a fee so it is important to check with different changing services for the best rate. Second, if you change too much money you will loose more money when changing that currency to another countries money. For example, if you change $100 in Germany and receive 80 Deutch Mark but only spend 50, the 30 marks remaining will have to be changed in the next country and you will pay another fee and loose value on the exchange. So be very careful on the amount that you exchange. The best way to avoid any problems is to have all your money turned into American Express Travelers Checks before leaving the states. Every country has an American Express office where you will change your money at the lowest rate. You can also pick up any mail sent to you at an American Express office and they can be very helpful in assistance when you need it, but you have to have American Express Travelers Checks to be able to use their services. It is worth it in the long run. IMPORTANT NOTE: Never exchange money on the black market. I don't care what they say, its a rip off. The bills they give you are usually outdated prints that are no longer used in that country because of war, the economy, etc. Just don't do it.


CHAPTER XVIII.
WORDS FROM THE WISE

There is so much to say, and yet I believe that you will learn from the people that you will meet along the way on exactly what you need to know beyond this guide. Some simple terms and words are things that you will learn during your journey. For example, WC is were the bathrooms are; Billette is a ticket; Kiosk is a convenience store where you can buy your tickets for the bus instead of buying from the bus driver, which is more expensive and never, never, never carry paraphernalia across any border (borders are called frontiers).
There are countries where you can work which is called "Black Work", but this you will have to find on your own. In the first few days of your trip you will meet other Americans who found work and were able to save their money and stay longer. Resorts are also places where you can find work. The island of Ibiza off the coast of Spain hires American speakers to assist American travelers. Although these jobs are very competitive they can be obtained but I believe you can find other ways to stay in Europe without having to work at a resort, and instead find black work (i.e. picking grapes, construction jobs, manual labor) in countries were you have made friends and they know you are looking for work. A lot of countries in Europe have a high unemployment rate and are very concerned that their jobs are going to foreign travelers, so it is advisable that you be very careful about seeking black work and wait until you have made friends with people that can help you get work.
The best and most important advise I can give you is to slow down, find squats, make friends, don't be in a hurry and if someone offers you a labor position or job so that you can stay in their country....take it. You will be in a hurry to keep going but remember that if you slow down and take each country in for awhile, you will find that you have made some wonderful friends who will help you out. All these places are going to be there for along time and you can return or you just might find someplace that you will want to settle in and lots of people do it. Remember, Europe is basically Texas, Oklahoma and Arkansas, so you can go back and forth.
Always be gracious to new friends and that is what you will receive in return. The day you arrive in Europe, you will embark upon a world of people that are more giving and loving then all the people you've have ever met in your life. I challenge you to last longer than my two years and hope that you find the peace and joy that I did.


CHAPTER XIX.
MY JOURNEY IN PARAPHRASE
(I So Much Wanted to Stay)
How to Stay!

If you truly want to immigrate, marrying a new foreign friend is an easy proposition. Most young people in Europe do not marry for love. They do so to help someone stay in their country in many cases. An old option that has existed for many years all over the world. My own mother living in Brazil married an American Merchant Marine and came to the land of the free! Young Europeans think of marriage as a Christian imposition and find the American notion of the marital institution as a threat to their independence. They see from American films how the young girls are always desperate to marry where they prefer to live autonomously and rarely live with their mates who may have been with each other for many years. They are quite independent and chose to make their own decisions uncomplicated by the rigors of marriage. Some partners may even live in the same commune, but in separate rooms.
Another option is to renounce your citizenship at any consulates office across the world, but that proposition comes with a high price tag. It's irreversible for starters. You would then have to find a country that would take you. Also very risky. Or you could just learn from this experience that will inevitably alter your life and return to the states and make the necessary changes in your surroundings and your relationships that will forever be in response to seeing you and your country outside of it. Corporations based in Europe will look for Americans that have certain skills and those can be found back in the states. Once you find a company that will hire you, the visa is generated by that firm and you are legal to stay.
Your trip may not last as long as mine, nevertheless, I believe that anyone can do what I have done and I encourage anyone who has some street sense, a strong desire to see Europe and a good head on their shoulders to use these tools I will pass along and create your own experience, adventure, enrichment, enlightenment, peace, and calm. To see how people really and truly understand how to interact and to live amongst people whom you will never truly understand unless you "speak their language". Their nuances, personalities, along with their particular countries and cultures are something you cannot fully comprehend in a brief time. It takes a while. Nevertheless, it will be a journey never forgotten. The differences can be so far removed that you question why we as Americans have not learned to live in a more social environment. The differences can also be quite emotional.



My Route


Flew into London's Heathrow, took the Tube to the main station. Stayed in hostel (mistake). Next day hitchhiked to Harwick (on the coast of England), took the ferry to Hoek Van Holland, took the train to Amsterdam from Rotterdam. The rest was by hitchhiking:

Amsterdam (where I stayed in a squat for two weeks. The Friendship Hotel). I also worked there for my room and board. I met several Americans who were heading to Spain, so I hooked up with them. Then to Belgium. Hung out in Brussels in a squat for a few days. Through Luxembourg. Then to France where hitchhiking is extremely easy and pitched my tent all along the way. Don't believe the hype about the French despising Americans. You won't hear it, and if you do, just agree, politely! Then to Spain, with a ride heading for Barcelona, where I made many friends on the main strip. Just look for the Camel! Then to Portugal where I traveled up and down the coast for many months. I found the International Rainbow People of Europe in Portugal and stayed there for a month. Then back through Spain, which is very hard to hitchhike through. They just don't pick you up, so try to make connections for a lift before heading through Spain. Then through the top of Italy. Then to Switzerland where I made tons of friends in Zurich. Then to Austria, the Iglibi Hostel in Wien (Vienna) will let you put your tent in the backyard. Then to Hungary, stayed in squat in Budapest, then a terrific campground outside the city called Romai. To Romania. Then to Czech, in Prague you can find a hostel to work as a train hustler for bed and food. There are also many squats in Praque and loads of American café's and shops. Back to Switzerland to visit my friends. Then to Germany. Back to Switzerland for a rest.
All these stops I stayed for sometime. Some I just passed through. You will have to decide which ones you like and where you will make contacts. Try to pick up addresses from people you meet when you are heading out to another country. People have friends all over and it is amazing how hospitable everyone is. Asking for addresses is a way of life and no one will bat an eye when you ask.

Be sure to visit my webpage at www.flash.net/~woozy for links to cybercafé's that you will find throughout Europe to keep in touch with friends and family, and other travelers. As well, you will find links to get a passport on express, various other hitchhiking links and auto-hitching where you can register for a car share.

Please stay in touch and let me know if you have any questions that was not addressed in this guide. I am constantly updating this guide through other peoples experiences and issues they needed answers to. So just let me know. My email address is woozy(a)flash.net. I am on ICQ at 9738361.

Many Happy Trails,

Love,

Marina