The organising of the expedition was kept in a secret till we know we have visas of Iran. But let's start from the very beginning.

PARTICIPANTS: Vladas Sapranavicius aka Nemenchine (VHHC, HHB) and Inga Garnyte (VHHC)
ROUTE: Vilnius (LT) - Bialystok - Lublin - Rzeszow (PL) - Vranov (SK) - Niaregyhaza - Debrecen (H) - Oradea - Bucuresti (H) - Ruse (BG) - Edirne - Istanbul - Yalova - Cinarcik - Istanbul - Antalya - Istanbul - Ankara - Kirikale - Erzurum (TR) - Maku - Tabriz - Tehran - Esfahan - Kerman - Bam - Zahedan (IR) - Queta (PT) - same route to Ankara - Kapadokia - Istanbul - same way back to Vilnius
TIME: 02-31 July 1999
VISAS: Romania (26 USD), Turkey (2x10 USD), Iran (25 USD), Pakistan (60 USD)
EXPENDITURES: 600 USD (2 persons, 100 stolen USD included)

OUR WAY TO TURKEY

2 July (Friday)

We started our expedition at 8.00 P.M. after I finished my work day and had some shopping.
We had some luck and after one Mercedes and two Audi we were on LT/PL border at midnight. From my some year hitching experience I know, that it is better to go via Lazdijai (Ogrodniki)border crossing point, but now we found out, that more cars go via Kalvarijos (Budzisko).

3 July (Saturday)

So we waited for a lift 55 minutes and had a ride by VW transit till Augustow. From this town we turn to 21 road. There were some trucks on the road at 3.00 A.M., but we decided to have some sleeping time.
After 5 hours sleep we went on the road and after 7 minutes we got a lift till Bialystok. We were drooped out on the entrance to the big city and began to hitch in the city. Citystop was rather successful and we crossed the city in 40 minutes.
I do not like road n.21... Cars go slowly and mainly there are local drivers going 10-30 km.
After noon we had a misfortune - Lublin... we should cross this city by foot.
Going from Lublin to Rzeszow we noticed two Lithuanian cars, who have overtaken us 2 times. When we were overtaken them for a second time I waved with LT flag. It helps :-) When we thumb to them for the 3rd time, they stopped and give us a lift till Rzeszow. They had just 1 place in one car and one in another. So we have split to separate cars. These Lithuanians were friends and just started their trip to PL, SK and A.
After Rzeszow we had just one more lift and put the tent at 00.20

4 July (Sunday)

Got up late. Started to hitch just at 8.45 A.M. Traffic was little - it's Sunday! We reached PL/SK border just at 12.15. we sit down on the bench waiting for a long distance cars. We were lucky. After 20 minutes we had a car with Polish manager, who work in Hungary. He drove very fast and gave us a lift till the crossroad, 20 km after Debrecen in Hungary. On 6 P.M. we arrived to Romanian border.
In most countries it is not difficult to have a lift from the border directly to the capital city. so we decided to wait for a lift to Bucuresti. after 2 hours after we were asked to cross Hungarian and after Romanian border we thought, that it was not very clever decision. We started to look for a car just to Cluj Napoca and... found a car to Bucuresti! There were 4 trucks going from France to Bucuresti. But they said, that they are going to stay for a night just after some kilometres.
We went by a small new Renault, with a legend "Gambrinus" on the side. Our driver spoke on French-English mix and we can not understand him well. On the evening we stop for a sleep and were invited for a supper. During the supper the representative of "Renault" in RO (he was driving other truck) told us, that Romania is a very beautiful country with no crime and hitch-hiking there is perfect, even better than in France and Germany, and that girls in Romania are most beautiful in the World.
After the supper we were offered to go with the same driver to Bucuresti today, during the night or sleep in one truck and go to the Bucuresti with other driver in the morning. We were tired and decided to stay.
We slept in the sleeping bags in a cargo sector.

5 July (Monday)

We began to go with other driver early. Near town Albayulia he said, that he has some deals in this town and we were drooped out on the ring road.
Such is hitcher's life... After some half of hour we saw these trucks passing us on a high speed and understood, that we were cheated by our last trucker... Then we started to move in local cars direction Bucuresti. After we passed Sibiu we thumbed in a spot with a lot of local "hitch-hikers". From the entering Romania we started to dream about Turkish truck. And there it is! It stops. I run to the truck and ask if he goes to Bucuresti. Yes! He goes even to Turkey!
The truck driver Ali was the best driver in our trip. He was carrying about us like a father. Even when he has a problem with visa, he asked us to wait together for his visa: "Fahren zuzamen - restoran no problem". he spoke just Turkish and some words in German. We do not speak Turkish and also know just some phrases in German. But it wasn't a problem. Turkish drivers use their gestures a lot, differently than Iranian people.
We went together till Bucuresti and Ali should stay one day there for making Bulgarian visa. We decided not to wait for him, event if "restoran - no problem". We got a lift 40 km till border of Bulgaria. There was a queue, but just one car (bus) was going to Turkey. We can have a lift even to Syria, but if we go separately...
After 2 hours of intensive looking for a lift directly to Turkey, we have noticed new Turkish truck coming. Yes! It was Ali waving through the window. As we found out, Turkish citizens already 3 days do not need visas to Bulgaria. So he was hurry to catch us on the border. We continued our trip with Ali.
First night we stayed in Turkish restaurant just 60 km after crossing of Bulgarian border. We had a big supper, live music and songs. Drinking beer, whiskey, champagne...

6 July (Tuesday)

I got up late and saw Inga already drinking tea in a restaurant. Our driver Ali was still sleeping after whiskey - champagne mix... He got up just after the noon, that his girlfriend, who was working there went to wake him up. She even has washed his car, because of this mix...
After the noon we went to Turkey and 5 P.M. we crossed Turkish border. After 8 P.M. we stop in some Service station. Ali should go somewhere to province of Istanbul and we want to go to Istanbul. Ali proposed to his home and tomorrow go to Istanbul together.
We rejected his offer and he run to coffee to look for a ride to Istanbul for us. We asked he not to do this and that we are able to care about ourselves, but he was like mad man, running with tears in his eyes.
We noticed beautiful Mitsubishi, which just arrived to the parking. We asked if the driver goes to Istanbul. The answer was positive and we went to Ali to say good bye for him.
We had a last cups of tea with Ali and our new friend Kurd from Iraq, who lives in Bulgaria with his Swedish wife at the moment.
On 22.00 (LT time) we reached Istanbul. Driver took us to a hotel in Aksaray (one of the worst districts in Istanbul). There was good two stars hotel with TV, shower and refrigerator in a room. Double room in this hotel costs 25 USD, but we got it for 15 USD, because the owner was a friend of our driver.
All evening our driver (he stayed at the same hotel) taught us how to survive in Turkey, how to make shopping, etc. The best phrase was "God gave so beautiful land for these shit people".

VISITING TURKEY

7 July (Wednesday)

We packed our rucksacks and left it in reception, in case where are customers who can pay all the price for our room. Then we should leave this hotel and look for another.
Finding of Iran and Pakistan consular offices was not easy. We went to Grand Bazar asking about Iran consulate. It was near Grand Bazar. There was big white building with Iran flags.
Before the travel we found out, that it is almost impossible to get Iran tourist visa, so we decided to say, that we are going to Pakistan and apply for Iran transit visa. The officer in consulate said, that we will get our double (!) transit visas for 7 (!) days for every entry in 5 days if we have Pakistan visas in our passports. We filled two application forms and left 3 passport size photos.

That is all! So simple! Great! Let's go to Pakistan consulate. The policeman near Iran consulate said, that it is not far and by taxi it cost 2 millions liras (5 USD) to get there. We stop a taxi and asked to take us to the consular office of Pakistan. Taxi driver was riding some half of hour in the city and finally it was clear for us, that he won't take us there... The taximeter showed 5 millions... We said 'good bye' and get out from a car angry. Driver asked to pay us for a ride, but we protested it and said, that if he do not know his city, we will not pay for him. Then he asked at least 3 millions, but we rejected it and went away. People in the street even can not imagine where we can find this consulate. we had two addresses of this consulate - one from the Internet pages of Turkish Foreign Affair Ministry and another from two years old Augustas's plan of the City. We decided to check the address from the Net. We stop the second taxi and want to go, but suddenly we saw our first taxi driver running to our direction. He was crying, that we do not pay for a ride and explaining something to policeman and one English-speaking man. We also explained the situation and said, that we will not pay any money. The Second driver took us to the place, mentioned on the Web. We pay for a driver 1.5 million, because we saw a big fear in his eyes, because we do not found the consulate and can not to pay for him. The bank officers in this building said, that the consulate was there 2 years ago, but it has moved. Bankers call to information and asked for a phone number of the consulate. After they spoke to a officer in the consulate and wrote down the address. We went to the street and stop the third taxi. The young guy said, that he knows this place and took us there, but... the was no any consulate. The guy understood himself, that we will not him any money and even do not asked - he was very sorry.
We were very disappointed and were searching in all area around ourselves. After we found anything we went direction our hotel asking policemen's and bankers sometimes. Suddenly one policeman in some bank said, that he knows where it is and described this place with all details. We were surprised and went there by foot, because it was too late to apply for a visa today. Finding was not easy, because were was no any table and any flag on this building. Just on the ground floor we noticed small table "2nd floor - Pakistan consulate". At last! We asked how we can get a visa of Pakistan. The consul said, that we should make our Pakistan visas in Byelorussia and we can not get visa there. We explained, that we need one more visa to go to Byellorussia and it is not on our road. After some discussions he yielded to us, but asked for a recommendation letter from Lithuanian embassy in Turkey. We said, that we will have it and went to call to our embassy.

Consul of Lithuania was rather fine guy. He has already helped for two friends of mine when they were travelling to Syria this spring. He said, that he will not write any recommendation letter, because we should make our Pakistan visas at home. "But we are here" I said, "you already have helped to my friends hitchers on their way to Syria". Then he asked for a reference from Lithuanian Internal Affairs to prove, that I do not have a criminal record. I explained, that we found out about it too late and ministry prepares this document 20 days. It is why we do not this document. We offer to send to him our Expedition Cover Letter, where he can find information about our expedition, our club and us. He thought a little and asked to fax this document to him. We found one office where we can send our document and data from. Consul promised to fax the recommendation letter to Pakistan consulate.

After we went back to our hotel and found out, that our room was already booked. So we took our rucksacks and went to look for another hotel. There are plenty of hotels on every corner in Aksaray district. We have visited about 10 two stars hotels. The next hotel, where we got a room for the same prise was Iranian and we were surprised after we saw such disorder and Asian toilets with a jug instead of paper... we left this hotel and after some time got a room in other hotel in the same Aksaray. There were no TV and refrigerator, but we do not need it. We left our things in the room and went to the downtown. Some sights were already closed and we just walked in the city.

8 July (Thursday)

We took our rucksacks and went to Pakistan consulate. After the filling the forms we paid 12.5 USD each. Consul promised, that our visas will be ready tomorrow after 4 p.m.
On 1 p.m. we were already on the road (near consulate) heading to Marmara sea. We were thumbing a lot till got out from the huge city by several lifts. Then we got a lift till Gebze ferry port. We found a beautiful "Toyota" there going by ferry to Yalova and then to sea resort Cinarcik. We spent some good time on the beach and Cinarcik.

9 July (Friday)

On 1 p.m. we went to Yalova and to the same ferry port. There was a ferry, ready to depart. All cars were already in ferry. We ran to the ticket office, but we changed our minds after we saw the price - 17.5 USD. Then we decided to go around the Marmara sea by land road. We were going to the road and suddenly noticed small "Hyunday" truck going to ferry. We stop it and driver took us to the ferry.
How great was our surprise, than we found out, that ferry took us not to Gebze but directly to Istanbul! It was great. We went to Pakistan consulate for our visas. Consul said "We have a problem...". Fear appeared on my face. "I call to general consulate to Ankara and I was said, that visa for Lithuanians cost not 12.5 USD, but 60 USD...", - said he sadly. He was very sorry for it and offer visa for two weeks instead of one. We did not need it, but he changed our visa any way. Also he gave us map of Pakistan and plans of all major Pakistan cities. After we spoke with him about one hour about economy and politics of Lithuania and International relations. Yeah... expensive a little bit.

Already with Pakistan visas in our passports we went to the road to Ankara for the second time and went to Antalya this time. Started at 5 p.m. we reached Antalya by two cars at 7 in the morning by two lifts. We should be back to Iran consulate on Monday morning and had just one free day in Antalya.

10 July (Saturday)

Walking in old town in Antalya we noticed a lot of car rent offices and decided to rent a car and see Antalya and it's region in one day. The cheapest car, which was offered to us was "Lada Samara VAZ-2109". We pay for it 35 USD for rent till 6 p.m. together with a driver.
We visited some beautiful places near Antalya: Gerbez (ruins of antique city), Aspendos (antique amphitheatre), Kursulu (beautiful park with waterfalls). We had some conflicts with our driver, because he wanted to tank full tank, but we counted that for us it will be enough a half of the tank and so on...
After we went to a beach and spend a good evening there. One Turkish family gave us a piece of water-melon. Turkish and Iranian families like to spend all weekend with all big family in parks or beaches. They took a lot of food and drinks with them and cook food on gasstove.
In late evening we went out of city by Citystop and put a tent near the road to Istanbul.

11 July (Sunday)

Road back to Istanbul was more successful. We started at 8.30 and reached Istanbul after 8.5 hours by 4 lifts. The last car was to Harlem district and we took a ferry through Bosphor strait. Here we are - for the 3rd time in Istanbul.
We visited some places of interest, sent e-mail to Lithuanian hitch-hiking mailing-list VAK(a) and started to look for a place to stay. One guy on the street offered a hotel for 15 USD, but we said, that we want to have an accommodation just for 5 USD each person. He said OK, and guided us to "Sindbad" hostel. It in old town and cost only 5 US$. It was rather good for us and it is recommended to other travellers: Kucuk Ayasofya, Demirci Resit Sk. no: 3/5, Sultanahmet - Istanbul. E-mail: sinbadyouth(a)hotmail.com We spent evening in expensive cafe in the downtown drinking Turkish tea from small glass cups.

12 July (Monday)

On 12.00 we already had our Iran visas (25 USD each) and 12.45 we started our way to Iran. 2.00 p.m. we already had "Ford Escort" to Ankara. there was my speed record while hitch-hiking. Driver was driving at 220 km/h speed! At 9 p.m. we were in Yozgad, at 1 a.m. in Sivas and at 3.30 a.m. in Refahiye.

13 July (Tuesday)

On the morning we continued our trip and 5.45 p.m. reached Iran border. Inga and me changed our clothes. She tied a kerchief round her head and I changed my shorts to jeans. There was a queue and Turkish border guards were busy with some construction works. They do not care about waiting crowd and we should wait there about one and half of hour. At last the leader of guards took our passports and hurled them to the officer in reception! We were lucky - our documents were checked first and after two hours we entered Iran.
entrance procedure is similar to the prison's. One border guard unlocked the door to the neutral zone (room) and we enter this empty room. After we knock the door to Iran, Iranian officer unlocked this door and after the checking of documents we entered Iran.
On the border there was an army of money changers but we didn't stop to speak to them and went direction first willage by foot. After two minutes local small bus took us till this willage and we got a lift to first town Maku by big old truck "Mack". The driver gave us a lift till the centre of the town and we went to the exit by foot. After some time we stood on the exit in dark.
people who stop for us shouted and tried to explain, that to stop there at night is dangerous and we must go to the hotel. We did not know what to think... Some time later one truck driver going to the town offered to us to stay in hotel and promised to cover all expenditures. He took a taxi to the hotel and bought a room and a supper there.
We found the worst hotel I ever saw in my life. It was dirty and not cosy.

VISITING IRAN

14 July (Wednesday)

In the morning our guardian took us by taxi to the road to Tebriz and wanted to pay for a car to Tebriz (250 km). We protested it and said 'Good bye'. After 4.5 hours we were in Tebriz and late evening reached Tehran. 0.30 (local time) we were in some suburb of Tehran and even can not imagine where is the downtown. We stop the first car and try to explain, that we want to reach centre of the city. they did not understand the word "centre", then we try to say "Meidan Khomeini" ("Khomeini Sq."). it did not help. We just sit in the care and smile. Then these guys in the car offered and accommodation at their home. We have agreed with it and went to their home. They also wanted to take us to the hotel, but we said, that we do not have money. At home they were very hospitable and offer late supper. After we watch some old European film and were going to sleep when they turned on porno film. We were shocked - porno film in Iran! It is a real big crime! We did not watch this film and went to sleep. Sleep was not calm.......

15 July (Thursday)

At 4 a.m. guys woke us and said, that we should go somewhere. I did not understand anything and I'll sleep there till the morning. They said, that we should go now and we took our rucksacks and they took us some way direction the downtown. We went by foot a little, by Citystop and finally by bus. city buses are divided into two parts - the first part is for male and the second for female passengers.
We came to the downtown and fond Tehran big not attractive and boring city. At first we saw big Iran Telecom building in the very centre of the city. The were 25 guardians with machineguns around the building.
We decided not to stay in Tehran and go to Esfahan - the most beautiful city in Iran. But we still have no local currency and went to look for a money changers. it was too early morning and we should wait till the opening of the bank. I want to change my 100 USD note to 50+50 USD and came to a bank. I took my purse and did not find my note there... It is why our friends who gave us an accommodation were so strange... We wished them to spend our money for noble actions and changed our German marks. We knew, that it is better to change our currency in the street instead of changing it in the bank officially.
After we had some hundreds thousand rials, we bought a map of Iran and some cherries.
Everything in Iran is very cheap and we can feel us like millionaires. We got some tickets for citybus and went to the road to Esfahan. Big white "Chevrolet" stop for us and we reached Esfahan event before 6 p.m. Our driver, owner of small factory took us to the best restaurant on the road. Just entering the city we saw a young girl escaping from police. Women going to opposite direction explained to us, that police have found out, that this girl has a boyfriend and it is a big crime.
In Esfahan we went directly to the most beautiful and largest square in Iran - Meidan Imam. We read about this square before the travel. It was worth to see fountains, handicraft's shops, mosques and market in this square. visiting mosques and other sights was expensive, so we have visited just some major buildings and places of interest.
After we went to International Call office and spoke to our parents. One minute of conversation with Lithuania cost just 0.4 USD - it is even cheaper, than to call to mobile phone within Lithuania.
On late evening we bought some food and went to the main city park. There were a lot of people with their families and all cooking stuff... We enjoyed "colour" fountains and put our tent behind the bushes.

16 July (Friday)

In the morning we visited mosque with Shaking Minarets and Fire Temple on the big hill. Then we walked about hour near the bridge of 40 arches and visited old Tea House inside this bridge. At 3 p.m. we were already on our way to ancient city Bam! With KIA we reached Yazd and were going to the end of the city, but suddenly we were invited to the big intercity bus which was going to Bam! Wow! We did not pay anything and went 6 hours by this bus.

17 July (Saturday)

On 4.20 a.m. (local time) we were in Bam. The heat was terrible - about 50 degrees by Celcium! And it is at night time! "is it possible to survive at day time here?" - we thought. After we slept some hours in the tent under the date-palm. Till the 5 p.m. we were walking in the new city and in ancient city from clay, dung and straws. It is so huge - with schools, hospitals, palace and so on. Some rest in ancient Tea House was a good rest. We meet two Dutch travellers there. They were travelling by motorcycles. After this impossible heat in Bam we got a lift to Zahedan and try to hitch-hike on the ring road. People were explaining for us, that we can not get a lift there. We did not believe and spent about 2 hours there. After we got a lift to the downtown and relaxed on the bench.
We knew how to get an accommodation in Iranian cities from A. Krotov's book about his expedition to Iran. You should simple sit on the bench in a park and from the crowd of people who will surround you, there will be one wise man (usually wearing glasses) who will invite you to his home.
We also sit on the bench. At first there was one family, who come to us with the salver and treated us to some tea. After (about at midnight) we were surrounded by the crowd of young people who tried to spoke to us. Our skills of farsi language were very poor and we couldn't understand everything. Later I picked up one man with glasses - he knew English and invited us to his home. He was a tourists' guide before Islamic revolution, so I decided that we could have an interesting conversation. We went to his friend's big house and they separated a big empty room for us. There were just beautiful Persian carpets and good air conditioning! Our new friend Reza showed his photos from travels and Iran - Iraq war. He showed his friends, brothers and cousins before the war and their injured bodies some time later... He told us about Iranian customs and law.

PAKISTAN

18 July (Sunday)

We slept well and in the morning we were brought till the exit of Zahedan. We started hitch-hike late and just after noon reached Pakistan border - Taftan. In 20 minutes we've crossed the border with no problem.
Yeah. The first view was terrible. Desert, desert, desert and poor houses... Sheeps, loudly shouting people, money changers.
We quickly left this "border zone" and went till good road near railway station. The road was empty. What to do? We decided to wait some hours or even sleep there near the border and next morning to return to Iran. We have nothing to loose, because we have no time for visiting Pakistan and we had to enter Pakistan any way, because we have just transit Iran visas.
After half of hour we saw bus from the border. we have noticed this bus already on the border when it was loaded. We stop this bus and asked if it goes to Quetta, capital of Belujistan. They invited us to the bus. We explained to drivers, that we have no money. It was no problem and we got two places in the bus. There were no air condition and we have endured heat of the desert. Wind was carrying sand through the window to hairs, mouth and eyes.
In the evening situation became better - were was no such terrible heat and wind. Bus was coming to the stop very often - "namaz", eating, unloading and so on. We went 550 km about 17 hours.

19 July (Monday)

We were in Quetta early morning. The town looks nasty... Everything is dirty, noisy... At first we decided to find a bus station. After some time we found out, that there are no any bus station and found just bus ticket office. A lot of offices were offering their buses to Taftan (we decided to go back to Iran the same day). We were looking for a bus with good air condition.
We found one firm witch was offering rather good bus at 5 p.m. and negotiated the price - 5.6 USD. After it we had some time for city-tour. Almost all downtown of the city is one big market. We even tried Citystop there and were lucky - one driver took us to the main market and even invited to drink some very sweet tea in the best tea-room. After we bought a kilo of mango fruits - we ate it for the first time! Also we bought some other fruits and national cap for 2 USD.
Near ticket office before bus departure we met two foreigners - one French and one guy from Germany. This one was left with all luggage and another was shaking a seller and crying "Give me f**king air condition!". As we found out, they just arrived by bus from Karaji and went by bus with no air condition 25 hours! This French guy was about mad after this...
We said to them, that we have found a good bus with very good air condition and for a good price. They also checked our bus and bought their tickets.

BACK TO IRAN

20 July (Tuesday)

This time the bus was better - we went about 14 hours even with engine problem. We were already experienced on this Taftan border point and have crossed it quickly. After 2 hours we were already in Zahedan. We went all the day and night non stop till Shiraz. The longest lift was 7.5 hours by "International" truck.

21 July (Wednesday)

At first we went by taxi to the downtown (0.75 USD) and booked a room in a good Esteghlal hotel (St. Dehnadi ave Zand, Shiraz, ph. 27728, 25383). It costs less than 2 USD for one person. Also we even got a map of the city from the owner of the hotel. We took a shower and went to a city. According to Inga's notes we visited some sights - mosques, bazar, botanical garden and so on. One Iranian guy was our guide and showed a city for us. After we went to the best restaurant in the city and eat a lot just for 6 USD (3 persons)!
After we print 3 our films in "FUJI" laboratory. Quality of pictures was not very good, but we also got 3 albums for every film for free. In the shops we bought jeans for me and dress for Inga.
in the hotel we were washing our clothes and rucksacks after dirty Pakistan. Then Inga noticed that two T-shirts and 2 pairs of socks were stolen... yeah, that was work of our "friends" in Tehran. Inga was very angry.

22 July (Thursday)

After good sleep in comfortable hotel we went to great antique city Persepolis, which is near Shiraz. It was great. We met 2 Polish budgettravellers. One of them was rather experienced and was already in a lot of European, Asian and African countries. They were travelling to Pakistan. We made some photos and went to Caspian sea. This day we went till Esfahan and put our ten at the same place like a week ago.

23 July (Friday)

On the morning we continued our trip and by 2 lifts we reached Tehran. Than we were said, that it is best to go via Karaj. We went to Karaj by 2 lifts and then we found out, that the road to Chalus (Caspian sea) is closed, because it was Friday evening (the day off) and everybody go from the seaside to Tehran... policeman explained, that the road will be opened just at 10 p.m.... 4 hours to wait. Wait? No. We decided to go direction Tabriz (Turkey). We got a lift to the downtown of Karaj and did not know which direction to go. Communication with local people is not so easy. Inga became nervous. And then I saw a wise-face man with glasses, going through. I asked if he spoke English. he spoke English and explained, that we can hitch-hike here (he knew what does it mean 'hitch-hiking'!!!), that it is better to go to Chalus tomorrow morning. After he invited us for a tea. He lived with his wife and two daughters. We liked his home very much and stayed there for a night. This visit was the best in this travel. We know more about customs, politics and religion of Iran. Our host Javad was very educated man, graduated university in USA before Islamic revolution. He even bought PC for his daughter.

24 July (Saturday)

On the morning we went to the road and got a lift from one family, which was going to Chalus to spend some holidays at their aunt. The car was comfortable - Mitsubishi Pajero and we got to the seaside quickly and comfortably.
rest of the day we spent walking and swimming. All the seaside is covered by ruins of big buildings - resort houses, hotels and so on. After the Islamic revolution it was forbidden to show naked body for women and entrance of foreign tourists was limited. Beautiful buildings became the ruins... I swam at the day light, but after I went out from the sea, I was told to put my clothes by seaside guards. Women are allowed to swim just in special places near hotels. So Inga swam at night.

25 July (Sunday)

Returning to Karaj was more complicated and took 5 hours. But 5 hours on the most beautiful road in the world (for me) is not a long time. From Karaj we went direction Turkish border. In Zanjan we got a lift by small and slow Mercedes truck. The speed was just 70 km/h and we decided to leave this truck. The best chance to do it was after 130 km when we were stopped by police. We left our car and started to hitch. Police showed us some gestures, what should mean "come here". We did not pay attention to it. Policeman started to go to our direction. Then we stopped a small truck and got in, but policeman stopped the driver and asked for our documents. he did not speak English and just looked to our passports. At the same time he asked our driver to put our rucksacks out from the car. I was almost mad - shouted to him, that we hitch-hike and how he can conduct himself like this! He said, that we should go by bus. We said, that we never use buses and I showed to him our expedition cover letter from our club. He saw, that I was very angry, the stamp on the print document and went by his car. After some minutes we got a lift new Peugeot till Sufy and went with this car more than 2 hours. After we got another lift instantly almost till the Turkish border. Our driver, student of the Tehran University invited us for overnight to his home in Shota town. It was very small town and our driver had a small furniture factory there. He also spoke Russian and showed his photos from his visit to Moscow.

TURKEY - 2

26 July (Monday)

In the morning our driver took us till the very border point and I even saw tears in his eyes... We were lucky on the border again. We gave our passports to the border guards without any queue. There was one more foreign traveller - one mountain - hiker from Germany. We brought his passport too and gave it for a border guard. Also we should buy Turkish visa and it was rather big problem. nobody knows this procedure well - where to pay, who should issue a visa and so on. We paid for it in the bank (10 USD per person). Turkish visa on this border was completely different from our "European" Turkish visa from Edirne border point. "Asian" visa was just a large stamp in a passport. All the day we went non stop and even by two intercity buses for free.
Our first bus was full and we have just one seat for two. It was very uncomfortable and I want to change our bus, but Inga did not want to do it, because this bus went directly to Istanbul. suddenly, the guy who sat by me, started to throw up... I just was on time to take my rucksack away... all the bus stated to stink an some people also turned blame. I said, that I will not no by this bus more. At the first top we left our bus and got another lift - new Mercedes. late night we stopped another intercity bus, which was going to Ankara.

27 July (Tuesday)

In the early morning we were in Ankara and decided to go to visit "Flintstones Cities" (as I call it) - Capadoccia. We have visited just Golbashi, but it was enough experience... It is the best place in Turkey. We walked half of the day and visited a big area of the rock-city. The only problem is, that there are a lot of tourists and everything is very expensive - even more expensive than in Istanbul. Now all our goals were reached and we went direction home.

28 July (Wednesday)

At the midnight we were in Ankara and went non stop, direction Europe. 10:30 a.m. we came to Edirne and walked some hours in the city. we bought some last gifts for friends and parents. In tourists information office we got a plan of the city and new map of Turkey for free. At noon we were on the Bulgarian border and after 13 hours we stayed for a night already after Romanian border. We did all Bulgaria by one Turkish truck.

29 July (Thursday)

We did Bucharest ringroad rather good and got a lift to Pitesti from the Manager of the Banko Turko Romania in Pitesti. he invited us for a tea to his branch. We showed our photos from the travel and had access to the Internet. After the visit bank's driver took us to the road to Sibiu. After 6 minutes we got a lift to Sibiu and went about 2 hours. There was a family, but they did not speak much. In Sibiu they asked us to pay for a ride. We said, that we had no money (we had just one 50 DEM note). They did not want to let us go and female person from the car held Inga's rucksack in her hand. They shouted, that we did not want to pay and we asked people to call to police.
Yet before the midnight we have crossed Hungarian border.

30 July (Friday)

In the morning we got a gift from one driver for a breakfast - water - melon. On noon we were on Slovakian border. we spent about 2 hours here looking for direct car to Poland. At 4 p.m. we crossed Polish border.

31 July (Saturday)

A car to Lithuania we caught just in Augustow. We went with this car to Marijampole and then decided to go to Kaunas - to visit my parents. We finished our travel in Kaunas at 5 p.m.